Re: show your mobile antenna array

Rick NK7I

You want to be sure to fuse AT the battery (both positive and negative leads), THEN power the switch etc.  I use 50A self-resetting circuit breakers.  This protects the line used to power your gear, not the radios (use the appropriate fuse AT each radio).

You want to use both leads for maximum noise reduction (the battery is a huge capacitor) and lower IR^2 losses (not returning through the vehicle body).  However in a new vehicle, which may measure alternator load, you want the negative at the chassis ground point so it can be included in the load analysis of the vehicle computer.

You want BOTH leads protected from accidents; if the positive was shorted or consider what could happen if the vehicle ground lead disconnected; all the current (of the starter for example) would pass through your radios; definitely a 'not good' situation.

(You also want a larger extinguisher, if you're ever planning on putting out more than a cigarette or small campfire; they go quickly and change it at least annually, the road vibration packs the powder down hard making it ineffective.)

Rick NK7I
North Idaho

On 12/31/2019 3:16 PM, ja moran via Groups.Io wrote:
here is the antenna array on my Ford F-150   To avoid drilling holes in the cab roof,  I created a platform or rail behind the cab that I punched 3/4 holes for each of the NMO mounts.    all the wires go over to the passenger side and go under the truck where the wires loop incase the truck bed needs to be raised for service, then enter the truck.  I put some tape over the wires where they enter below the rear passenger side back door.

I also ran an 10 gauge wire from the battery to a master switch then to a fuse block where every radio or accessory (dash cam, backup cam, front camera, PA amplifier,  radar detector  and several radios)

the PA amplifier is to let people know their vehicle needs service when their turn signals are not working.


Join to automatically receive all group messages.